{"id":1648,"date":"2019-03-28T13:43:27","date_gmt":"2019-03-28T11:43:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.laipiojimoklubas.lt\/?p=1648"},"modified":"2021-01-18T14:43:30","modified_gmt":"2021-01-18T12:43:30","slug":"sicilija-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.laipiojimoklubas.lt\/?p=1648","title":{"rendered":"Mont Blanc"},"content":{"rendered":"

Mont Blanc, 4807 m.<\/p>\n

\u017d\u0117rintis kupolas auk\u0161tai i\u0161kil\u0119s \u012f m\u0117lyna dang\u0173 vir\u0161 Chamonix ir Courmeyeur, valdovas, auk\u0161\u010diausia vir\u0161ukaln\u0117 Alp\u0117se.<\/p>\n

Daugiau nei prie\u0161 du am\u017eius atsirado alpinizmas, atlikus pirm\u0105 \u012fkopim\u0105. 20 auksini\u0173 taleri\u0173 \u017denevos mokslininko Horace Benedict de Saussure\u00a0 pasi\u016blytas atlygis paskatino kri\u0161tolo rink\u0117j\u0105 Jacques Balmat ir daktar\u0105 Michel-Gabriel Paccard 1786 met\u0173 Rugpj\u016b\u010dio 8 dien\u0105 atlikti \u012fkopim\u0105 mar\u0161rutu einan\u010diu per Rochers Rouges ir \u0161iaur\u0117s ryt\u0173 \u0161laitu. Metais v\u0117liau de Saussure pats atliko \u012fkopim\u0105, steb\u0117damasis ry\u0161kiai m\u0117lynu dangumi ir jo barometro parodymais, kurie buvo ypa\u010d ma\u017ei.<\/p>\n

Sud\u0117tingumo kategorijos yra ai\u0161kiai pagristos. Kalnas gali pasi\u016blyti daugyb\u0119 nuostabi\u0173 \u012fkopim\u0173 vis\u0173 sud\u0117tingumo lygi\u0173. Bet ne visi, kas i\u0161vyksta entuziastingai, i\u0161eina saug\u016bs. Laikas nuo laiko staigios audros sukelia tragedijas. Alpinistai mir\u0161ta nuo: hipotermijos, pasiklydimo r\u016bke ir p\u016bgoje, kar\u0161\u010diavimo, nu\u0161alim\u0173 ir \u012fkrit\u0119 \u012f ply\u0161ius \u2013 metinis mir\u010di\u0173 skai\u010dius beveik pasiekia tri\u017eenkl\u012f skai\u010di\u0173. \u0160iandien Gendarmerie des Hautes Montagnes gelb\u0117jimo sraigtasparniai esant tinkamoms oro s\u0105lygoms i\u0161gabena nukent\u0117jusius taip i\u0161gelb\u0117dami daugel\u012f, kurie anks\u010diau b\u016btu \u017euv\u0119 nesulauk\u0119 pagalbos.<\/p>\n

Tolimesni kalno istorijos momentai tur\u0117t\u0173 b\u016bti pamin\u0117ti taipogi. 1808 metais valstiet\u0117 Marie Paradis i\u0161 Chamonix buvo pirmoji moteris pasiekus vir\u0161\u016bn\u0119. Apie 1840 pakilimas i\u0161 Grands Mulets per Grand Plateau ir Bosses Ridge buvo pirm\u0105 kart\u0105 atliktas Maire Couttet vadovaujamos grup\u0117s. 1861 Leslie Stephen ir Francis Fox Tuckett su Melchior Anderegg, J.J. Bennen ir Peter Perren u\u017ekop\u0117 \u0161iandieniniu Normal Route per Aiguille du Gouter ir Bosses Ridge. Tik keturiais metais v\u0117liau \u012f galing\u0105j\u012f Brenva Spur \u012fkop\u0117 Melchior ir Jakob Anderegg su George Matthews, Adolphus Warburton Moore ir Frank\u00a0 ir Horace Walker (t\u0117vas ir s\u016bnus). 1872 Thomas Stuart Kennedy su Jean-Antoine Carrel ir Johann Fisher sudar\u0117 mar\u0161rut\u0105 per pavojing\u0105 South-west face. Ital\u0173 Normal Route atrastas 1890 Achille Ratti (v\u0117liau popie\u017eiaus Pius XI) ir jo vedli\u0173 L. Ir J. Bonin, J. Gadin ir A. Proment.<\/p>\n

Pirmas pakilimas i\u0161 Peuterey Ridge buvo atliktas 1893 Paul Gussfeldt, kurio vedliai buvo Emile Rey, Christian Klucker ir Cesar Ollier. 1901 Brouillard Ridge per \u0161iaur\u0117s vakar\u0173 per\u0117j\u0105 buvo \u012fveikti\u00a0 Guiseppe ir Giovanni Battiste Gugliermina su Joseph Brocherel ir (de\u0161imt met\u0173 v\u0117liau ) tiesiogiai i\u0161 Col Emile Rey Joseph Knubel su Geoffrey Winthrop Young, Humphrey Owen Jones ir Karl Blodig. Innominata Ridge buvo \u012fveiktas 1919 S.L. Courtauld, Edmund G. Oliver, Adolphe ir Henri Rey ir Adolf Aufdenblatten.<\/p>\n

D\u0117mesys tada\u00a0 buvo nukreiptas \u012f\u00a0 sud\u0117tingas puses: Brenva Face buvo i\u0161tirta tarp 1927 ir 1934 m.; Freney Face buvo i\u0161tirtas atliekant \u012fkopimus 1928, 1940, 1961 ir 1963; Brouillard buvo i\u0161tirtas atliekant \u012fkopimus 1959, 1965 ir 1971; ir Grand Pilier d\u2018Angle buvo i\u0161vaik\u0161\u010diotas atliekant galingus ir reikalaujan\u010dius daug j\u0117g\u0173 \u012fkopimus nuo 1959. \u0160i\u0173 dien\u0173 \u012fprastas Normal Route yra einantis per\u00a0 Aiguille du Gouter. Tik ma\u017ea dalis alpinist\u0173 \u012fkopia i\u0161 daug \u017eemiau esan\u010dio Grands Mulets Hut. Tokia pat pad\u0117tis ir mar\u0161rute esan\u010diam Italijos pus\u0117je. I\u0161\u0117jus i\u0161 Col du Dome, visi trys mar\u0161rutai veda \u012f\u00a0 Bosses Ridge \u012f auk\u0161\u010diausi\u0105 ta\u0161k\u0105. Kitas m\u0117gstamas pri\u0117jimas yra einantis i\u0161 Aiguille du Midi per ar \u0161alia Mont Blanc du Tacul ir Moant Maudit, daugelis alpinist\u0173 teikia pirmenyb\u0119 \u0161iam mar\u0161rutui, kad i\u0161vengt\u0173 nusileidimo nuo Gouter Route.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Vietiniai<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Mont Blanc, 4807 m. \u017d\u0117rintis kupolas auk\u0161tai i\u0161kil\u0119s \u012f m\u0117lyna dang\u0173 vir\u0161 Chamonix ir Courmeyeur, valdovas, auk\u0161\u010diausia vir\u0161ukaln\u0117 Alp\u0117se. Daugiau nei prie\u0161 du am\u017eius atsirado alpinizmas, atlikus pirm\u0105 \u012fkopim\u0105. 20 auksini\u0173 taleri\u0173 \u017denevos mokslininko Horace Benedict de Saussure\u00a0 pasi\u016blytas atlygis paskatino kri\u0161tolo rink\u0117j\u0105 Jacques Balmat ir daktar\u0105 Michel-Gabriel Paccard 1786 met\u0173 Rugpj\u016b\u010dio 8 dien\u0105 atlikti […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":354,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[29],"tags":[46],"yoast_head":"\nMont Blanc - KAUNO LAIPIOJIMO SPORTO KLUBAS<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"\u017dygiai \u012f kalnus, Laipiojimo treniruot\u0117s, Via Ferrata, Ski Turai\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/www.laipiojimoklubas.lt\/?p=1648\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"lt_LT\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Mont Blanc - 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